Breathing dead people

Pashupati
Pashupati is the second holiest place for Hindus, superseded only by Varanasi. This is where Nepali Hindus come to die and burn. Mamma and I had a superb guide who gave us a rundown on the following. Pashupati is the home of the largest and most ornate temple of Shiva. It's supposedly the most ornate temple on the Indian subcontinent but that is all the guidebooks can tell you since only Hindus are allowed to set foot inside the gate.

Along the river are the Pashupati version of the Burning Ghats in Varanasi. The upriver side of the bridge is reserved for royalty and brahmins while the downriver side is for the common people. Originally there were five slabs for commoners each dedicated to a different caste. Warriors, craftsmen, businessmen, commoners, and untouchables. Since then five new slabs have been added to keep up with demand. Brahmins are the highest caste in Hindu society besides actual royalty. These are the holy men who uphold the religious aspect of the society. Only Brahmins can be cremators and the position is handed down from father to son. These men are professionals and greatly respected. All of the dead persons personal belongings (bedding, clothes, etc) go to the cremator. Consequently these men make a very good living doing a sacred but dirty and sometimes dangerous job. We saw one whos body was half covered in burns. Our guide explained that when he gets drunk and falls asleep while working he falls in the fire.

Here's a fact for the day. Belly buttons don't burn. That is the only part of the body left and is taken by the family, placed in a jar and buried in the river bank. Men take about 3 1/2 hours to burn while women take 4 as we have more water and fat. Because of high demand bodies are only half burned in Varanasi before being thrown in the river. Pashupati's volume is less therefore they have the time to complete the burning, after which the ashes are put on the river (which feeds into the Ganges). Still burning goes on all day and night. Before burning the family takes the body to a sloping slab and dips their toes inn the water. If the person wakes up then they let you live. If the person wakes up after the fire is lit they let you burn. The thinking being that a demon is trying to escape the fire.

All Hindus are burned except for pregnant women, newborn babies, and people who died of snake bites. Naturally my first question upon hearing this was whether the women and babies where considered unclean. Our guide assured us that they were not. Despite being buried and not burned they are still reincarnated. Something about the baby dying before receiving the blessing so their spirit is not truly here yet. Another interesting gender tidbit. After a death the men in the family are considered unclean and cannot return to the house for 13 days.

Our guide also pointed out that only Indians bathe in the river. "Nepalis know it is unclean and unhealthy." Oh, and did I mention that the American ambassador goes jogging through Pashupati every morning?

In case anyone is interested here is a small rundown of the main hindu gods.

Brahma is the 'creator', Shiva is the 'destroyer', and Vishnu is the 'preserver'. Ganesh represents good luck and Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Shiva's animal is the bull and his wife's name is Parvarti (alternately Kali or Durga). She is the warrior goddess and represents purity. As Kali she is the goddess of death and presides over sacrifices. In the 15th century human sacrifices took place at her temple in Pashupati. I was interested to note that the people sacrificed were the 'evil' of society. Murderers, rapists, etc. Hmmm... Can a connection be drawn to modern society in America? Do things ever really change?

Ganesh is the elephant headed god and how he got his head is a good story. Shiva once left his home with Parvarti and was gone for many many years. When he returned he found a young man standing on the steps of his house barring his entrance. Furious Shiva took his sword and cut the young mans head off. Just then his wife Parvarti rushed out of the house and exclaimed "my lord what have you done?! This man is your son!" Horrified Shiva sent [someone, I can't remember who] to retrieve the head. They returned unsuccessful but brought the head of an elephant to be used instead. Shiva restored life to Ganesh by fixing the elephant head on his shoulders. Incidentally Ganesh rides around on a mouse as his transport. So my question is if Shiva is a god and can grant life why couldn't he find his sons actual head? But then again when have myths ever really made that much sense?

Now for the best quote from Pashupati and certainly a top three for this trip. "The Kama Sutra has one hundred [and something] different sexual positions. Some simple, some take many lifetimes to learn. Can learn through yoga, meditation, etc. Waste of time. Do it and get it over with." - our Nepali guide in Pashupati